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There is no room for error in the world of fine jewelry designer Stephanie Gaunt Vanderwilt. Working by appointment out of her home in a gated community in northwest Austin, she’s as precise as she is security conscious. Not surprising, when you’re working in 18-karat gold and platinum on pieces that can cost $10,000. As critical as the precision of her design skills is, that’s all for naught without her ability to capture the emotion of her client in the piece they’re commissioning. It’s all very personal. That’s why she often meets with clients (who learn of her through word-of-mouth referral; she does no advertising) in their homes, establishing trust, learning their style, creating a bond; she checks in with them for approval throughout the design and manufacturing process.
Vanderwilt is in her element talking about her craft, a confidence borne out of 30 years experience. “My father taught me how to tell a good piece of jewelry from an extraordinary one,” she explains. A third-generation jeweler raised in Indianapolis and mentored by her father Harry Gaunt, Vanderwilt talks us through creating her signature pieces. She also provides an expert guide to choosing gems and practical tips on caring for jewelry.
Tools of Her Trade
“Everything is down to the millimeter. Yet, precision and perfection in execution – none of that means anything if you aren’t tuned in to what the client wants.”
Compass, millimeter gauge/caliper, ring sizer, tweezers, stone sizer, scale.
Creating Perfection
“After the client has approved the design and I’ve secured the stone (I buy stones around the world), I make a detailed design drawing for my wax carver, who is here in Austin.”
“All fine jewelers have an expert in wax carving … I sometimes use wax carvings of previous designs as style samples to show my clients.”
“Each step of the process is handled by an expert. Once I’ve made sure the stone fits and the size is perfect, I send the wax to the casting company and the stone to the setter in New York City. The casting company is down the street from the setter in the Jewelry District, so once the casting is done, they just walk it over. Part of being a third-generation jeweler is that we’ve had years working with the same people. These are jewelers that set for Tiffany and Cartier.”
TLC For Your Fine Jewelry
First, check for broken, cracked or vulnerable areas in the metal. These can be repaired by an expert (stressing the word expert) without heavy-handed signs of work.
Care varies with the type of stone. Diamonds and sapphires are the most durable. Opals and pearls can be tricky; they should be protected from perfumes, soaps and harsh conditions. Ask your trusted jeweler, as there are so many variables.
Stones can usually be re-polished if dull or repaired if chipped, usually for $200-$400 depending on the stone.
Durable stones clean up the best with plain household ammonia and water, using a soft toothbrush. No toothpaste or soap. Toothpaste is abrasive, and soap leaves a film. If I’m in a hurry, I use the hottest tap water and brush to remove lotion and everyday dirt. Leave the opals and pearls alone; wipe with a clean, soft cloth.
Sanitizer won’t hurt durable stones, but will probably leave a film. Again, no pearls or opals ... they don’t like the alcohol. Hand lotion doesn’t hurt a diamond, but really dulls it.
Remove your jewelry when you notice you are bumping or scraping it a lot, and take it off at bedtime. We would not wear a Chanel dress on the golf course, or hang a Monet in the garage. It’s a mindset that is easy once you get used to it.
Platinum is the most dense and therefore the strongest metal used in fine jewelry. You see many more antique rings in platinum that have endured over the years. It’s a great heirloom metal.
Gemstones: Cut, Choice & Care
Fancy cuts (which are anything other than a round stone) are about 10-15% more expensive because more of the rough diamond is lost in the process. Quality also affects price. The rarer it is, the more you pay. Flawless occurs in nature very rarely, so the flawless diamond is much more expensive than the imperfect diamond. (Imperfect grades have flaws visible to the human eye.)
Selecting a cut that is right for you is mostly personal preference. However, different cuts have their own personalities.
A round diamond is the most brilliant, due to the cut and faceting. It simply reflects and refracts light more than the others. Round is the most traditional.
An emerald cut is a premiere cut, generally associated with glamour and an understated elegance. In this cut there are very few facets to camouflage any flaws. This means you must have a grade more towards the flawless than the imperfect category.
The oval cut is also lovely, and tends to have a larger surface area than the round diamond, so a 1 carat round will appear smaller than a 1 carat oval.
The pear or teardrop shape is also lovely, but not as popular at the moment. Yes, trends come and go in the industry, just like any other. In the ‘90s I sold many marquis-cut (football shape), which you can’t hardly give away now.
Buy the cut you want, and a good designer can guide you toward a style that works in your everyday life. However, remember that if you are wearing a $10,000 work of art on your hand, you have to take care of it. Diamonds can break. That surprises people, but if you can cut it, you can break it. (It means nothing that a diamond scratches glass. Glass scratches glass.)
MORE INFO | 512.331.6312
Stephaniedesigns@gmail.com
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