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On February 20th, wine lovers across Austin were as excited as children waiting for the circus to come to town. For the second year, the Wine and Food Foundation of Texas hosted the Taste Washington! Austin road show. Organized by the forward thinking and creative crew of the Washington Wine Commission, 55 wineries showcased 250 wines for the trade in an afternoon tasting. And the public enjoyed an evening extravaganza of wine, food and FUN!
Attending again this year, I was impressed by the number of Washington women playing major roles in an industry that has been male-dominated for millennia. Washington’s rise in the world of wine has been rapid to say the least. Now the second largest wine producing state after California with 600 wineries, 350 grape growers and 32,000+ acres planted in vineyards, Washington wines are garnering praise from all over the wine world. Another encore experience was the friendly, relaxed and inviting atmosphere that emanates from this merry troop. And the organization of this tasting and the showcase of wine is always first rate. Let’s see – organized, friendly, cooperative, dynamic and fun. It appears there must be a lot of female influence at work here! So we asked Ryan Pennington, senior marketing director of the Washington Wine Commission, to gather together some of the WOW factor behind this up-and-coming wine industry. Here are the stories of three very different and unique women of Washington’s wine country.
Katie Gordon Nelson is the second generation of one of Washington’s preeminent family-owned wineries, the Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards and Cellars. Her father, Jeff Gordon was one of the first grape growers to plant red grape varieties in the state.
Originally, Washington was viewed as white grape country; especially Riesling and Chardonnay. Gordon took the leap, proved great reds could be produced and the “red rush” was on. Nelson chronicled her family’s foray into the wine industry: “For generations my family was involved in large scale farming – potatoes, onions, corn. An opportunity arose for my parents to buy land in a beautiful location overlooking the Snake River. Nothing was planted at the time and wine grapes were one of the crops suggested. The intention was to just sell the grapes. Yet, as it happens in farming, we could not sell all the grapes from that first harvest (1983). So my dad and his brother brought someone in to help them make wine and had some experts taste it. They said it was good, “Put a label on it!” And that’s how it all began.”
After a good chuckle at the thought of potato farmers making wine, Nelson picked up the threads of her tale. “I remember working on the farm thinning grapes and other chores. I eventually went off to college, worked in marketing for the Washington State Potato Commission, got married and had two boys. My uncle retired and my father asked my husband Marc and me to help him manage the farm.” Leaving good jobs, both Nelson and her husband have never looked back. “Just watching my dad work so hard, it was important for us to keep the farm family-owned and operated. It’s a blessing and what a wonderful industry for us to be a part of for the rest of our lives. I love it! It’s busy and crazy and no days are the same. I wouldn’t have it any other way!”
Karen Greer of Sheridan Vineyard came into the business through another route. A confessed city girl, she fell in love and along with her husband, Scott, came a vineyard and his passion for making wine. Greer grinned slyly as she started. “Scott was a pension planning manager and grew tired of the job. Prior to our meeting and marriage, he heard about some property for sale in the Yakima Valley. He drove up there, fell in love with the area and put an offer on it immediately. Of course, he had no idea what he was going to do with it!” Laughter raced around the group. We all had an idea where this tale was headed. “So he closed his business and bought a tractor and had no idea how to use it!” By this time, the guffaws were growing. “The decision was to plant five acres of vineyard. Go small scale and see where it all went. Well, five acres grew to 76 acres and now we’re on track for 130. He realized he was going to have to do more than farm, so he diligently taught himself how to make wine. Like Gordon Brothers, we produce all estate-grown wines.” And like Gordon Brothers, they are delightful.
For 15 years, Greer had worked in the pharmaceutical industry and a little over a year ago she realized she had developed a passion for wine and the industry. “I say I’ve moved from one drug industry to another but this is a lot more fun!” So she’s taken over the books, the marketing and the tastings. “You know – anything that needs to be done that he doesn’t want to do!” Greer is a lot like their wines. Fun, refreshing and full of vim and vigor.
Robin Pollard, executive director of the Washington Wine Commission is a quiet, yet powerful force. With her progressive and proactive stance at the helm, she has helped the entire Washington Wine industry skillfully ride this rushing wave of growth. Growing up on a farm in Iowa, Pollard garnered a degree in agriculture but entered the world of public policy rather than head back to the farm. She landed eventually in Washington. “I worked under several governors in the area of small business and economic development and then became state tourism director.” While tourism director, she had the opportunity to work with her predecessor at the WWC. “We put together a strategy to develop wine tourism. And although there’s a long way to go, we are seeing the benefits of that early planning.”
Ever forward-thinking, Pollard divulged how she came to lead the WWC. “I realized that my roots and heart where still very much in agriculture. Years passed, but I always kept my eye on the director of the wine commission job.” The job came open. Pollard tossed her hat in the ring and feels blessed to have been selected. “I’ve had some wonderful jobs working for the state of Washington but this is definitely my dream job!” As mentioned previously, Pollard is a quiet, gentle, yet strong presence. But along with her revelation, a smile filled with the warmth and sunny side of Washington spread across her face.
When quizzed as to what has made Washington’s wines so successful and why there’s so much promise for women wanting to join the industry there, each made a salient point. “Washington is very progressive in promoting opportunities for women. We have the highest number of women serving in any state legislature in the country – two women senators and a woman as governor,” Pollard proudly declared. Nelson followed right behind with, “It’s the camaraderie within the industry, especially between the growers and the wineries. We all know we have to depend on one another to succeed.” And Greer had this to add: “Our vineyards are becoming older and more established, producing finer grapes. Our winemakers and people in the industry are getting smarter. And we are being recognized for all of that.”
Let’s see – perfect weather, a growing industry built on cooperation, passion, trust and smarts. Washington may not only be the perfect climate for wine but for women as well. There’s definitely a WOW factor at work there!
WEB EXCLUSIVE:
CLICK HERE FOR MAP
Just take a look at the map and see why there’s such growth in premium wines from Washington wine country with the promise of more to come. Blessed with the same fortuitous latitudinal placement as the great wine regions of France, Washington processes the perfect climate for growing grapes. Located on the eastern side of the Cascades where every year is filled with over 300 days of sunshine, the grapes can achieve rich ripeness both in terms of sugars and tannins. The rapid drop in temperature during the cool desert nights helps to maintain acid levels. This jackpot of favorable conditions gives Washington winemakers a fantastic foundation of well-balanced fruit from which to craft their consistently superb tasting wines.
The desert climate and the soils protect Washington’s vineyards from the dreaded threat of phylloxera. Therefore, it is one of the few areas in the world where the vines are grown on their own rootstocks. In addition, the climate acts as a natural barrier to insect and disease. The result is that many of Washington’s vineyards have implemented sustainable, organic and biodynamic principle with ease. The diversity of terroirs allows over 30 varieties of grapes to be grown, thus making Washington a winemaker’s dream world. Variety is the spice of life and the blends being crafted by winemakers here are spectacular.
WEB INFO
Sheridan Vineyard – Scott and Karen Greer – visit the website www.sheridanvineyard.com
In Austin, Scott and Karen Greer showcased two out of the five wines from their premium brand, Sheridan Vineyard. The other wines were not yet ready for release and there was a collective sigh around the table during the interview, when Karen revealed that their Sheridan 100% Cabernet Franc would not be in the tasting. It is a fantastic wine and Sheridan is one of the Washington wineries really on the march with Cab Franc. If you are looking for a new, truly food friendly wine without the sticker shock of some of the premium Pinot Noirs, start seeking out this variety. Cab Franc is used mainly as part of a Bordeaux blend. However, on its own, when well-crafted, it can sparkle and shine at any dinner table. Medium-bodied, it marries well with most meats, especially grilled and roasted. Duck, lamb, salmon and pork – they love Cab Franc and it loves them. But if you adore vegetables, Cab Franc will swoon over them. Roasted eggplant, peppers and cabbage can’t run away from Cab Franc. In Washington, Cab Francs have lovely blueberry and raspberry fruit forwardness. And Washington Cab Francs, in general, do not possess the sometimes overt vegetal notes that can grip some wines. Instead the nose detects lively coffee, olive and light tobacco notes.
A small operation producing only about 3800 cases per year Sheridan wines are mainly available from the winery and online.
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards – visit the website www.gordonwines.com
Katie Gordon Nelson presented a stellar lineup showcasing the breadth of wines Gordon Brothers Cellars has to offer. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates what people are saying about the consistent and wonderful quality of Washington wines – full of fruit, but not a fruit bomb, balanced by bright acidity and ripe tannins. Your nose is filled with the aromas of dark red cherries, with a waft of aromatic woody smoke. On the palate, black tea and dark ripe fruit linger with no flabbiness in the structure. This wine has a backbone. The rest of the lineup was delightful but a true treat was the 2005 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer – a bargain at $14.00! Washington is the place to shop for affordable and delicious late harvest and ice wines. This wine has everything to love in a late harvest wine – spicy exotic notes on the nose with tropical fruits doing a tantalizing tango on the tongue, i.e., lychee, papaya, a hint of mango dusted lightly with pie spices! It’s sweet, but not cloying, with great acidity and a beautiful lingering finish. Serve after dinner with some nuts and salty blue cheeses.
Both wines are available online.
Washington Wines in Austin
(Check with your favorite wine shop for availability)
High-End Premium Brands - $25.00 and up
DeLille Cellars – Doyenne – Dunham Cellars – Andrew Will
Premium Brands – $10.00 and up
Powers (also produces a fabulous box wine – great for a party) – Columbia Winery (a go-to for delicious and affordable Riesling and Gewürztraminer) – Chateau Ste. Michelle – Columbia Crest – Maryhill Winery